Webber Beam Blocker
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
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Webber Beam Blocker
I just ordered a Webber Beam Blocker. Its' simply a domed peice of plastic that you bolt to the front of your speaker to difuse the highs. I've alway thought the bigger 15" speakers sound great for steel but suffer from being quite polar at the high end. Hope this helps.
Any one tried this?
Jim
Any one tried this?
Jim
- Andy Zynda
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Beam Blockers
Yup! You'll be gld you did it!
-andy z-
-andy z-
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Hi Jim, I had a similar device many years ago that I purchased through guitar player magazine. It was called a "speaker tweaker" and you mounted it on the front of the speaker using the speaker bolts. It had a series of fins radiating outward with a solid center and it was supposed to difuse the ice pick in the ear high ferquency notes.
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- Bari Smith
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I USE EM!!
I been using them for about 2 years ,a major improvement on open back cabs.Smooths out the tone.I first saw this years ago ...Stevey Ray Vaughn had duct tape patches on his grillcloth to cut down on the beaming effect.
SHO-BUD LDG(Cooperized),MULLEN RP SD-10,Webb 614E,'73 Vibrosonic,Mesa-Boogie Pre,Stewart 1.2,TC Electronic M-300,JBL's,Black Box,Walker Seats'84 Dobro,'69 Martin D-28,and assorted other goodies!
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I do that with a disk of cardboard. Works fine. I use Velcro to attach it to the grill cloth, one strip stuck to the cloth, the other on the cardboard.Dean Parks wrote:You can also get a bass drum pad, something like that, about 4-6" disk, and attach that to the back of the speaker cloth centered in front of the speaker cone. Result is, you're always "off axis", which is a kind thing, for live or recording both.
- Bruce Bindeman
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Here is a link to Weber Baeam Blocker:
http://www.webervst.com/blocker.html\
Jim, what amp/speaker are you going to use the beam blocker with? Also, Weber does not mention how you mount the beam blocker with a rear mounted speaker. I assume the metal flange would have to mount directly to the speaker. Interesting!
http://www.webervst.com/blocker.html\
Jim, what amp/speaker are you going to use the beam blocker with? Also, Weber does not mention how you mount the beam blocker with a rear mounted speaker. I assume the metal flange would have to mount directly to the speaker. Interesting!
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Thanks everyone. All positive comments. Sounds like I could have gone for a less expensive informal arrangement though.
Len I'm currently using an older, mid 70's Session 400 with rear mounted BW. I'm thinking I can substitue some longer speaker mtg screws in two places that will protrude out the front of the bafel. This will allow me to use nuts to attach the Beam Blocker.
Len I'm currently using an older, mid 70's Session 400 with rear mounted BW. I'm thinking I can substitue some longer speaker mtg screws in two places that will protrude out the front of the bafel. This will allow me to use nuts to attach the Beam Blocker.
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We used to do that years ago on speaker cabs - put anything on the center of the grill cloth (inside) to keep heads from exploding due to treble at close range. They work great and you lose almost nothing.
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
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Ahhh, the ol "dust cap on a stick" trick, ehh???
http://www.parts-express.com/webpage.cf ... r_dust_cap
http://www.parts-express.com/webpage.cf ... r_dust_cap
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- Brad Sarno
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Well regarding the ice-pick-in-the-ear, one should never ever ever ever ever ever aim a speaker at their ear. The nature of how sound projects off a speaker, especially the metal dustcapped types we often use, is that there is a brutally powerful, nearly "coherent" beam of energy that projects straight forward and is about the diameter of the voice coil, 4" or so in the case of a JBL or BW. This beam is brutal and WILL CAUSE TINNITUS AND HEARING LOSS. This beam is largely made up of treble content only, and is a disproportionally bright sound compared to what the speaker is doing as a whole.
The beam blocker is a good idea, although personally I feel it's a bit reflective and is likely causing some sonic artifacts. I'm more inclined to want to try a disc that is more absorbtive, maybe a beam blocker covered in a layer of foam or fuzz or something soft and or foam/rubbery, and about 6" in diameter so it blocks the whole beam. Keep in mind that the voice coil is not the whole dome, but it's the ring at the outer edge or circumference of that dustcap. That's where the most energy is coming from, the outer edge of the dustcap.
Personally, I've gone for years with a guitar amp about chair height or a bit higher so that the beam is aimed at my back, not my head, and also never reaches the audience. With steel, I often aim the beam at the back of my pack-a-seat so again it never hits anyone. And you can be sure that if your beam hits anywhere near the soundman, he'll think you have a brutally trebly tone and will turn you down or off in the house mix. The beam is weird in that it travels hundreds of feet without weakening. It can really hurt people and make them not enjoy the sound of your steel. One solution too is to tilt a speaker so it aims upward, above everyone's heads, and also to the side of your head so like Dean pointed out, everything is "off axis". Off-axis is where the tone is, it's the real sound.
Avoid the beam, it's a real killer.
Brad
The beam blocker is a good idea, although personally I feel it's a bit reflective and is likely causing some sonic artifacts. I'm more inclined to want to try a disc that is more absorbtive, maybe a beam blocker covered in a layer of foam or fuzz or something soft and or foam/rubbery, and about 6" in diameter so it blocks the whole beam. Keep in mind that the voice coil is not the whole dome, but it's the ring at the outer edge or circumference of that dustcap. That's where the most energy is coming from, the outer edge of the dustcap.
Personally, I've gone for years with a guitar amp about chair height or a bit higher so that the beam is aimed at my back, not my head, and also never reaches the audience. With steel, I often aim the beam at the back of my pack-a-seat so again it never hits anyone. And you can be sure that if your beam hits anywhere near the soundman, he'll think you have a brutally trebly tone and will turn you down or off in the house mix. The beam is weird in that it travels hundreds of feet without weakening. It can really hurt people and make them not enjoy the sound of your steel. One solution too is to tilt a speaker so it aims upward, above everyone's heads, and also to the side of your head so like Dean pointed out, everything is "off axis". Off-axis is where the tone is, it's the real sound.
Avoid the beam, it's a real killer.
Brad
- Brian McGaughey
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This is timely that you posted this right now.Brad Sarno wrote:Well regarding the ice-pick-in-the-ear, one should never ever ever ever ever ever aim a speaker at their ear. The nature of how sound projects off a speaker, especially the metal dustcapped types we often use, is that there is a brutally powerful, nearly "coherent" beam of energy that projects straight forward and is about the diameter of the voice coil, 4" or so in the case of a JBL or BW. This beam is brutal and WILL CAUSE TINNITUS AND HEARING LOSS. This beam is largely made up of treble content only, and is a disproportionally bright sound compared to what the speaker is doing as a whole.
Avoid the beam, it's a real killer.
Brad
After our band's last "group meeting", we decided to have me rearrange my normal setup which had me facing the audience with my amp directly behind on a chair or stand. I was having trouble hearing and our front vocalist was complaining about my volume, which of course I thought was proper. (The volume, that is ).
I decided to start setting up to face sideways and keep the amp in the traditional backline row but figured if it was more direct in to my ear, I could turn down.
After reading your 6 in a row "never, evers" you've got me rethinking this and also scheduling an appointment to the audiologist for some custom ear plugs. I've been having some ringing in my ears during the day and I've know doubt it's related to this issue of the beam.
Think I'll experiment with cardboard, too. I'm a JBL high end kinda guy!
Thanks Brad.
Last edited by Brian McGaughey on 13 Feb 2012 8:48 am, edited 2 times in total.
- Jerry Kippola
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This is an old post. After trying the Beam blocker for a couple of weeks I removed it. I think it did add some sonic artifacts.
After that I switched to a 12" speaker, the Eminence Fender Special Design . It's way less beamy and disperses the highs much better than the Peavey BW 15". I miss the deep lows a little but the midrange is just wonderful on that 12. It had the sound I was after and disperses the mid/highs better.
Brad I think you are right about the artifacts. Nice lap steel BTW. I followed your post.
How's the tone?
After that I switched to a 12" speaker, the Eminence Fender Special Design . It's way less beamy and disperses the highs much better than the Peavey BW 15". I miss the deep lows a little but the midrange is just wonderful on that 12. It had the sound I was after and disperses the mid/highs better.
Brad I think you are right about the artifacts. Nice lap steel BTW. I followed your post.
How's the tone?
- Brad Sarno
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Thanks Jim. The lap steel came out great. Sounds big and warm, sort of like a Bakelite Rick. Obviously the humbucker won't do a horseshoe tone but it's not bad at all. As a guitar, it's heavy and dense and just has a big, meaty, warm, yet bell-tone-clear kind of sound. She's real happy with it. I like to think Byrd would have dug it. We were aiming toward a Byrd tone friendly lap steel, and it came out pretty close.
Here's the lap steel thread:
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=218660
Thanks also y'all for the feedback on what you thought of the Beam Blocker and how it did weird stuff to the tone. My personal solution as I mentioned was to simply be conscious of where the beam was aimed and try to let it get blocked by your back, your pack-a-seat, or aim it up at the ceiling and never at a person, especially the soundman . Always have your ears a bit off axis. And keep the mic just off the voice coil too, over the cone's paper and near the voice coil, but not right in front of the voice coil.
Brad
Here's the lap steel thread:
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=218660
Thanks also y'all for the feedback on what you thought of the Beam Blocker and how it did weird stuff to the tone. My personal solution as I mentioned was to simply be conscious of where the beam was aimed and try to let it get blocked by your back, your pack-a-seat, or aim it up at the ceiling and never at a person, especially the soundman . Always have your ears a bit off axis. And keep the mic just off the voice coil too, over the cone's paper and near the voice coil, but not right in front of the voice coil.
Brad
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I tried them and took them out.I can't really describe it but I didn't like how they sounded.I am going to try a 5" foam circle on the grill cloth when i get around to it.
I usually use a fender amp and just tilt it back on the legs.This seems to work,I just have to find a spot where it doesn't beam my head.
I usually use a fender amp and just tilt it back on the legs.This seems to work,I just have to find a spot where it doesn't beam my head.