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Felix Blevins

 

From:
Dunlap, Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 26 Dec 2007 11:11 am    
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What is the best 10 string pedal steel, student model, with 3 & 2, considering both price and quality? I will probably go for a new one, but would consider a used one in excellent condition. I am not interested in a Carter Starter.
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Rocky Hill


From:
Prairie Village,Kansas, USA
Post  Posted 26 Dec 2007 11:27 am    
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I purchased the GFI SM-10 with 3 & 4 I don't think you can go wrong with this one. check it out at www.gfimusicalproducts.com just click on the box at the top that says steel guitar models.



Rocky
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Calvin Walley


From:
colorado city colorado, USA
Post  Posted 26 Dec 2007 11:41 am    
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there are 2 excellent choices
the Zum Stage One
the G F I
both are great choices
_________________
proud parent of a sailor

Mullen SD-10 /nashville 400
gotta love a Mullen!!!

Guitars that i have owned in order are :
Mullen SD-10,Simmons SD-10,Mullen SD-10,Zum stage one,Carter starter,
Sho-Bud Mavrick
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Louis Vallee


From:
Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Post  Posted 27 Dec 2007 12:31 am    
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I have play many year with GFI S10-P

For student model i recommend the GFI S10-SM because it's the same "Bell Cranks" system that the pro model and you have the possibility to add lever.
_________________
Louis

'08 Magnum D-10 8&5 * Hilton VP * Lemay MK-1 * Peavey NV 1000 * Rick Johnson Cabs * Walker Seat.


Last edited by Louis Vallee on 27 Dec 2007 2:05 am; edited 1 time in total
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CrowBear Schmitt


From:
Ariege, - PairO'knees, - France
Post  Posted 27 Dec 2007 1:42 am    
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i'd recommend the ZumSteel Stage 1 Felix

best bang 4 $

http://www.stageonesteelguitars.com/
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Tony Prior


From:
Charlotte NC
Post  Posted 27 Dec 2007 2:51 am    
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Regardless of which model you buy, understand what it HAS before your make the purchase. We can all talk different brands all day long, but once you get any of them home you can end up with a Guitar that has limitations or a Guitar you can grow into.

A student should grow into an Instrument.

3+2 is a nice setup but at some point you will reach a point of frustration as perhaps the TABS or Courses you are learning from , or the phrases you are wanting to play from recordings are using additional pulls.

3+4 is a setup you can grow into. 3+5 is a setup you can use for life.

Just understand what it is you are bringing home, if it requires spending a few $$$ more it is wise to do it up front.

Some of these 3+4 Student Steels are approaching prices of PRO used Steels. PRO Steels allow you to swap around the configurations to suit your needs, I am not certain if you can do that with all student Steels.

A Pro steel, especially a good used one , should retain it's value, especially if it is a 3+4 or 3+5.

There would be nothing more disappointing than sitting home a month or two after a purchase and opening up a new course and learning that your Steel is not configured to play the material as written.

It's not really about the brand, it's about the early journey.

good luck

tp
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Larry Robbins


From:
Fort Edward, New York
Post  Posted 27 Dec 2007 4:12 am    
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Well said,Tony! Very Happy
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Twang to the bone!
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Ron Whitworth


From:
Yuma,Ariz.USA Yeah they say it's a DRY heat !!
Post  Posted 27 Dec 2007 5:05 am    
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Hello Felix;
I would have paid $100 for the advise Tony has given you when i was trying to get started & before this Steel Forum was available.Please read again what Tony has said & you will not go wrong following
his advise IMHO..Ron
_________________
"Tone is in the hands. Unless your wife will let you buy a new amp. Then it's definitely in that amp."

We need to turn the TWANG up a little

It's not what you play through, it's what you play through it.

They say that tone is all in the fingers...I say it is all in your head Smile

Some of the best pieces of life are the little pieces all added up..Ron

the value of friendship. Old friends shine like diamonds, you can always call them and - most important - you can't buy them.
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Antolina


From:
Dunkirk NY
Post  Posted 27 Dec 2007 5:19 am    
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You might consider watching the "Instruments for Sale" section right here on the forum. I've seen some great pro guitars go for reasonable prices. I personally would shy away from student models for all the reasons previously posted. If you're at all like most of the new players I know, you'll outgrow it before the first year.
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The only thing better than doing what you love is having someone that loves you enough to let you do it.

Sho~Bud 6139 3+3
Marrs 3+4

RC Antolina
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Ron Page

 

From:
Penn Yan, NY USA
Post  Posted 27 Dec 2007 6:12 am    
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I'm with Tony.

In Jeff Newman's beginner speed picking course (No Speed Limit, Parts 1 and 2), in the very first scales he introduces, you need the half-note drop on string #2, i.e. that 3rd knee lever. And, the half-note is a lot easier if your steel has the half-stop, because that one also drops a full note.

I've seen some great prices here on what appeared to be lightly used pro-line steels.

Jamie Bender was here on Monday with his new GFI Expo-- 3 pedals and 4 knees. It's not a student model and is slightly more expensive, but it's a nice sounding and playing steel. This level of guitar won't limit you in any way as a beginner or intermediate player. When you want tunable splits and such you'll have to improvise or trade-up.
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Emmons Lashley LeGrande II
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Tim Bridges

 

From:
Hoover, Alabama, USA
Post  Posted 27 Dec 2007 7:17 am    
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You might want to also consider the Jackson Blackjack. From the posts thus far, it appears to be a fully loaded S-10 with 8X4. The 5th KL would cost about $150.00-$200.00. The price is attractive as well. The Zum Stage 1 also seems to be beyond the student model.

Buying a good used Pro model is an excellent idea. I try to consider that I will change guitars and when I do, I want it to retain its' value. There are some really good deals that pop up. You may also want to post in the "Want To Buy" section. I bought a great LL III in that manner.

Tony has given you some really sound advice. If I were in your shoes, I would take heed. Very Happy
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Bob Carlucci

 

From:
Candor, New York, USA
Post  Posted 27 Dec 2007 9:53 am    
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My advice would be to find a good used pro model..The MSA Classic guitars are bulletproof, hold up decade after decade, and are cheap... Mica S 10 models often go from $600-900 and really nice maple lacquer S 10 Classics usually go 1000-1300 depending on condition,, They usually have 4 knee levers, many even have 5 pedals on the S10.....
Double necks don't sell for much more than the single necks for some reason...

These days you can find BMI,Carter, Fessy and many other brands at reasonable prices.. Save a bit longer get a full featured pro model steel.. Why spend close to a grand and then sell for half that a few months later??.. Buy something you won't need to replace after a few months... If you must buy a cheaper guitar, I am thinking a Jackson Blackjack would be a good bet... bob
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Antolina


From:
Dunkirk NY
Post  Posted 27 Dec 2007 10:01 am    
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I've read a lot of good things about the Blackjack. If I were just getting started, it might be one of my choices.
_________________
The only thing better than doing what you love is having someone that loves you enough to let you do it.

Sho~Bud 6139 3+3
Marrs 3+4

RC Antolina
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Felix Blevins

 

From:
Dunlap, Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 27 Dec 2007 11:02 am     Need advice on purchase
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Thanks guys for all of your input. First of all, I guess that I should have explained that I am not a newbie, even though I play like one. I am not interested in adding to any guitar that I buy. I have recently sold a pro model guitar that I had, not because it was not a great guitar, but because it was much more guitar than I needed. I will shortly be celebrating my 69th birthday, so I will be content with a guitar that serves me well at this time. I play lap steel some, but would like to have a pedal model also. I like to play along with tapes and CD's and I find it easier for me with the pedals and knee levers.
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Antolina


From:
Dunkirk NY
Post  Posted 27 Dec 2007 11:08 am    
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In which case I'd opt for one of the older sho~buds if you can find one reasonably priced.

I sold mine 10 years ago and couldn't get a grand for it. I bought one last week and paid $1500 for it.
_________________
The only thing better than doing what you love is having someone that loves you enough to let you do it.

Sho~Bud 6139 3+3
Marrs 3+4

RC Antolina
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Bob Carlucci

 

From:
Candor, New York, USA
Post  Posted 27 Dec 2007 1:26 pm    
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Good clarificaton Felix.. understood.. In that case I would have a long hard look at the Jackson Blackjack... It is suppossed to be a real nice guitar.. I would get in contact with forumite Chris LeDrew as he has one and really likes it.. Even has a video of him playing it... For a grand it looks killer and will do all you need it to do... bob
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Lowell Whitney

 

From:
Waynoka, Oklahoma, USA
Post  Posted 28 Dec 2007 9:50 am    
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Felix, Buy the best one you want and can afford, then play the dickins out of the thing. I'm already 69 and that's what I do and lovin' it. Just my 2 cents worth. Wishing you and all forum members a happy and prosperous New Year.
Lowell


Dekley D-10 and an understanding wife
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Carter SD10
70's Telecaster
Nashville 400/Express 112/Artist VT Bandit
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Jim Sliff


From:
Lawndale California, USA
Post  Posted 28 Dec 2007 11:15 am    
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Another vote for the GFI. Inexpensive, near-pro quality, nice tone, and light weight, Also easily modified.

Bob mentioned the MSA Classic - based on experience I would stay away from that one. I had all sorts of problems with mine and it is one of the heaviest steels ever made.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
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Mike Perlowin


From:
Los Angeles CA
Post  Posted 28 Dec 2007 12:47 pm    
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Jim Sliff wrote:
Another vote for the GFI. Inexpensive, near-pro quality, nice tone, and light weight, Also easily modified.

Bob mentioned the MSA Classic - based on experience I would stay away from that one. I had all sorts of problems with mine and it is one of the heaviest steels ever made.


MSA guitars are in fact very heavy, but Jim, although I don't doubt that you had trouble with yours, this is the exception rather than the rule. Yours must have been damaged somehow. MSA guitars are generally very reliable and trouble free.

I've been playing them since day one.
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Please visit my web site and Soundcloud page and listen to the music posted there.
http://www.mikeperlowin.com http://soundcloud.com/mike-perlowin
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