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Post new topic String length versus String Gauges
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Author Topic:  String length versus String Gauges
George Rout


From:
St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 10 Dec 2007 6:28 pm    
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I know this has been discussed before, but it was never of interest to me so I paid no attention. However, I have a buddy here in town (who's paid his SGF dues by the way but hasn't been given the key as yet) who has a few lap steels which are different lengths (nut to bridge).

Using C6th and E or E7th (or even A Major) for examples, does thicker/thinner string gauges have any impact when stringing the different length guitars????

Unless the subject requires a great detail, can I get a few responses on this. Thanks.

George
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David Doggett


From:
Bawl'mer, MD (formerly of MS, Nawluns, Gnashville, Knocksville, Lost Angeles, Bahsten. and Philly)
Post  Posted 10 Dec 2007 7:57 pm    
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In general you are shooting for approximately the same tension, regardless of neck length. That means to attain the same pitch on instruments of different neck lengths, you will want lighter gauge strings on the longer neck, and heavier gauge strings on the shorter neck.

The difference between a 22 1/2" neck and 24" is just over one fret, or a half-step in pitch. The difference between 22 1/2" and 26" is over two frets, or a whole step in pitch. Imagine that you took the nut of a short neck and started moving it back one or two fret lengths, without changing the string tension. The pitch would drop. In order to get it back up to pitch at the longer string length (while keeping the same tension), you would have to go to a thinner string. You would gain some sustain with the thinner , more flexible string.

Imagine you took the long neck, and without changing tension, moved the nut in one or two frets. The pitch would rise. In order to get it back down to pitch at the shorter string length (while keeping the same tension), you would have to go to a thicker gauge string. And you would loose some sustain.

If you try to maintain the same pitch with the same gauge string by changing the tension, you will end up with strings too slack on the short neck, and too tight (possibly breaking) on the long neck. If the tension were ideal on the middle-sized neck (say the 24"), you might be able to go to either of the other length necks with the same gauge for the same pitch. The tension would not be ideal, but might be workable. But I don't think you could take a string gauge with ideal tension on a 22 1/2" neck or 26" neck, and use it for the same pitch on the other.

Of course, if you are stuck with a set of strings you have to use, you could lower the pitch of the whole tuning on the longer neck, or raise the pitch on the shorter neck. But most people would rather choose the gauge to fit the tuning, not the other way around.
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George Rout


From:
St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 10 Dec 2007 8:09 pm    
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Thanks David, that's exactly what we were looking for. I really appreciate that.
George
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Jude Reinhardt


From:
Weaverville, NC
Post  Posted 10 Dec 2007 11:52 pm     String tension.
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I use the same string sets, either SIT brand or the Jagwire brand that b0b sells here on the forum on my lap steels without worrying about string tension. I'm going from a 22 1/2" scale (Bluestem) to 25" scale Gold Tone, Pettingill, and 24" scale Melobar. I'm currently using sets in Amajor/E7,or C6/A6 with no problem of strings have too high or low tension.

Jude
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Edward Meisse

 

From:
Santa Rosa, California, USA
Post  Posted 11 Dec 2007 12:41 am    
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I found that string length/gage questions could be safely ignored if you have an E first string. 14 and 15 always seem to work. But with a G or a G# on top I found that the G or G# string would give too much and end up damping itself on the pup. The lighter the string, the more careful you have to be.
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George Rout


From:
St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 11 Dec 2007 8:47 am    
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Thanks Edward & Jude. While the question wasn't for my use, I might mention that I'm a "heavy handed" player and I use no less than a 16 for the top string, and mostimes an 18. I can't stand "spongie feeling strings", such as a 14 for the top E. You don't need to "pull" the string, it pulls itself with the slightes pressure on the bar.

Going down to thick gauges for the last 3 strings is okay for A Major or E, but I have to change for the guitar I use for C6th.

Coming from the old school of playing, the strings were all heavy, just a shade short of wire rope!!!!

Thanks again guys.
Geo
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