Inf on Pro III changer mechanism needed please.

[Barry Gaskell]

Hi Guys
I'm converting my Pro III twin, (serial number 16660) to a Single with a padded rear neck, 4+5, and consequently refurbing the guitar throughout.My tuning is rather unusual (I play a D9) and amongst other unusual pedal moves, I flatten the 10th string,an A note, a tone and a half. I was having great trouble doing this with the Sho-Bud mechanism. I have no problems on my road guitar, which is an Emmons SKH twin 10, which I love to bits. I have, I think, found part of the trouble (see pics)

Apologies for the lack of macro. The metal is the famous pot metal, or monkey metal as we say in the UK. The chrome has been worn away and the soft metal underneath has a coarse groove in it making a smooth action impossible.
I notice that the arm circled ( with the spring assist connection) in the second pic has been cut off from the factory on the 2nd string 9th neck. This seemed a standard thing at the time.


The arrow points to the groove, and the circle shows where this arm has been cut off.
My question.
Does this amputation enable a greater degree of flattening ?. If not , why was it done.
In that era, the second string had the false stop for a double flattening. That's what makes me think it makes a flattener easier.
Any help or explanation would be appreciated.
Thanks
Barry

[Ken Byng]

Hi Barry
As you live in his neck of the woods, I'd get Ronnie Bennett to have a look for you to see if he can replace any worn parts. Either that or you could get John Coop in the States to replace all your fingers but that would be more costly when the shipping costs are added. I have a Pro 111 and none of the parts have worn so far after 32 years (touching wood) of my ownership. Converting it to a single neck seems a bit drastic though. Wouldn't you be better off trading your Pro 111 with an LDG?

Regards
Ken

[Barry Gaskell]

Hi Ken
The idea behind the conversion is that I'd have loads of spares for the top neck and have the 4 pedal option. I have an unusual set up and another guitar would mean I'd have to buy quite a few extra parts, whereas with this idea I have all the parts I need, albeit with a few disasters, ie pot metal failure. I tend to experiment at home with this guitar and then instal the more successful ideas to my Emmons.Also I'm very attached to this old Pro III, it has the most delightful birdseye.Since the post I've replaced the worn, grooved changer and cut the leg off, so I'll see if that does the trick.
Ronnie's a good friend of mine and if it doesn't work I'll give him a call.
I wonder who at the Sho-Bud factory sanctioned this disastrous move to use such inferior components. Do we know ?, or is he keeping his head down. Maybe it was an accountant. To make such wonderful birdseye cabinets and then ruin what would have been a classic guitar with such inferior parts seems one of the biggest blunders in pedal steel history.
I'll post a pic when I've finished the refurb and maybe you'll see what I mean.
Best regards
Barry

[John Coop]

Cure

[Bent Romnes]

10-4 John. I will never figure out why everybody don't just spend the extra few bucks and do it right by putting a bearing there.
BSG has them. Fulawka has them.
Just makes so much sense.

[Kevin Hatton]

The spring assist part was cut off purposely because Sho-Bud did not want anyone using it for the intended pupose and creating more problems. Jeff Surratt related that to me the other day. Order replacement parts from John Coop above or Duane Marrs and you will have permanantly solved your problem.

[Barry Gaskell]

Thanks guys,
If the piece I've put in, or any of the others, gives any trouble, I'll be right on to Coop or Duane.
All the guitar metalware is of the pot metal type, so to do the lot would be quite expensive. I'd certainly consider a new changer mechanism though.
Cheers
Barry

[Steven Black]

Go with John Coops parts they work smoothly and your guitar will like them.

[Ricky Davis]

Barry; Coop's finger is the premier way to go.
If you want to try and fix/work with the current original finger....I have done a fix on it...by bending the bent piece that pushes the top piece....in; so that it pushes on a smoother part of the top piece and the groove doesn't bother that resting position or push.
Ricky

[James Morehead]

I wonder who at the Sho-Bud factory sanctioned this disastrous move to use such inferior components. Do we know ?, or is he keeping his head down. Maybe it was an accountant. To make such wonderful birdseye cabinets and then ruin what would have been a classic guitar with such inferior parts seems one of the biggest blunders in pedal steel history.

[John Billings]

James, DITTO!

[Brint Hannay]

As I understand it, the "arm" with the hole for the helper spring was cut off because that permits the string to lower further. Stock, the elbow of that extension hits the center rivet when it moves backward, limiting lower distance. With the "arm" shortened enough to miss the rivet, the top piece can swivel farther.

[Barry Gaskell]

Hi Ricky
Thanks for the info'. I'll maybe try that.
Because I've got the C6 neck mechanism for spares, I've found some that aren't even marked, so I've put one of those in and cut the leg off and it seems to work beautifully.When I can afford it I'll certainly go the Coop way. That seems to be the concensus and as your the main Bud man, it doesn't come with any higher recomendation. Thanks for the response.
By the way I was talking with Jean Fish today and she sends you her best.
Regards
Barry

[Ricky Davis]

Hey Way cool Berry; looks like you're on the right track.
Hey Jean; is so cool and really really trying to promote us> www.missleslie.com and get us over there....any help is appreciated.
Ricky

[Jon Graboff]

Here's my testimonial: I sent Coop's the tailpiece from my 80's Pro l and he installed his changer and… MAN! What a difference! So smooth and reliable. The way, way, way to go!