Pedal steel lubrication
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
Paraffin oil is a huge dirt magnet. I wouldn't put it anywhere near a steel part.[/quote]
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
-
- Posts: 6429
- Joined: 22 Jul 2003 12:01 am
- Location: Bradford, Pa. Frozen Tundra
FWIW:
Years ago a Petroleum Engineer at the old Kendall Refinery (Now ARG) advised me not to use motor oil for 'utility" lubricating. That's because it has antioxidants, emulsifiers, Viscosity Index improvers, and other goodies in it appropriate for the crankcase, but not for out in the open air, where the additives in the oil will absorb water from the atmosphere.
Years ago a Petroleum Engineer at the old Kendall Refinery (Now ARG) advised me not to use motor oil for 'utility" lubricating. That's because it has antioxidants, emulsifiers, Viscosity Index improvers, and other goodies in it appropriate for the crankcase, but not for out in the open air, where the additives in the oil will absorb water from the atmosphere.
-
- Posts: 12
- Joined: 20 Sep 2005 12:01 am
- Location: Lubbock, Texas, USA
I, like a lot of others on here use Tri-flow on most of the moving parts and changer. But about a year ago I tried something a little different. I bought a plastic tube of Tri-flow teflon grease which is real thick and almost clear in color. I put it on the nut rollers and shaft, with them disassembled. When I change strings my break-in time just dropped to about 1/4 as long as before, and I just roll the rollers back and forth when the strings are off to distribute the grease. I have only put it on there once in a year and am having great luck on two different steels...a Millennium and an Emmons. And the tuning seems easier and quicker. I only wish I had figured it out sooner. Try it...you may like it too!! Wilbur
- Steve Hotra
- Posts: 341
- Joined: 11 Mar 2008 4:53 pm
- Location: Camas, Washington
- Contact:
-
- Posts: 21192
- Joined: 16 Feb 1999 1:01 am
- Location: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
- Steve Hotra
- Posts: 341
- Joined: 11 Mar 2008 4:53 pm
- Location: Camas, Washington
- Contact:
- Steve Norman
- Posts: 1696
- Joined: 12 Oct 2007 6:28 am
- Location: Seattle Washington, USA
- Contact:
- Johan Jansen
- Posts: 3328
- Joined: 4 Aug 1998 11:00 pm
- Location: Europe
- Contact:
Any oil that leaves a film in the changer is good, as long as it doesn't leave residu like WD40. Also don't use Caramba or stuff like that, it attacks the surface of metals to loosen oxidation. You don't need that. All oil is OK, tefflon you can get at a bike store, all otheres in your car supplystore.
JJ
JJ
- Steve Hotra
- Posts: 341
- Joined: 11 Mar 2008 4:53 pm
- Location: Camas, Washington
- Contact:
I say keep them oiled with what ever you like,and once about every 3 years take the changer apart and clean it up and put it back together and oil it again.They are really not that hard to take apart and clean.Just dig in and gitter done.Keep every thing marked and in order.I clean my rollers every three or four months.take them out wipe down the rod and oil them up.What ever oil you are useing will eventially leave some residue.