I finally got my CNC machine all set up and ready to mill (well I need to redo some wiring but that will be easy.)
I played around tonight with milling one side of a key head. I just grabbed a piece of wood and wrote a little G-Code program to route the shape from the wood. It was fun. Things went well so I guess I'll be moving on to my aluminum pile pretty soon.
Any of you builders got any tips (or requests) for me? I figure bellcranks would be pretty easy to do. In fact, none of the parts on a steel seem too intricate as far as the milling goes.
In any case, I'm open to advice.
I plan to try putting together a lap steel kit pretty soon. My machine is small so routing an entire lap steel body will require some planning because it will have to be done in stages - probably 3 stages on each side. Not sure how I'm going to line things up for each pass after the first one.
Hi Gary...Lucky you!!! Imagine having a machine like that. Well, I can only dream. I would put up with a manual mill.
A full pic and detailed description of your machine would be appreciated.
Also, what about the learning curve on one of those?
I have some experience with stationary woodworking tools such as a shaper.
They seem so mystical in a way, to someone like me who hasn't even seen one up close.
I don't have any at this minute, but we have had topics on it in the past. I did a search, but was unable to zero in on any posts with pictures, but I know they are there somewhere.
Gimme a day or two to dig them up and I'll get back to you on it.
Thanks Gary
My mill is much smaller. It's a Taig 2019. Only 12" of travel on the x-axis. Less on the other axes but I think it's big enough for small parts. Just about anything on a pedal steel should be doable on my machine.
I'm looking into other software for the CAD/CAM conversion. All of the CAD programs are so hard to use (AutoCAD, TurboCAD, etc.) compared to regular bitmap and similar drawing apps. But I do have a program that makes is really easy to draw parts and export to dxf. I'm also looking for a program to convert my dxf files to G-Code. I found such a program today (for free too) but I haven't tried any of the code on my mill yet. I'll do that tonight. I don't expect great results for the price.
I'm also interested in doing some CNC lathe work on my mill. Any ideas for that?
My dxf to gcode program is Flashcut CNC 2 (free demo version works fine for dxf conversions)
The Cadd program that I use is my own code, Pretty difficult to learn but can produce almost anything. I use EMC on my mill and Turbo CNC on my lathe for threading.
Here is photo showing my new Midi pickups being milled out of brass.
Hey David, thanks for the tip on Flashcut CNC. You're right about importing dxf files. Way easier in that program than anything else I've found so far.
It wrote a program for me in about 20 lines of G-Code that all the others were doing in 200 or more lines. Today I tried a pickup bobbin. Flashcut decided to cut the perimeter first and then drill the holes for magnets. I know I can change that by hand but do you know a way to change it in the program? Obviously, the magnet holes should be drilled before the perimeter is milled.
Also, I took a look at your web site (pictures). That Nova Vibratory looks interesting. Looks like little stone triangles for deburring but what do you polish parts with in there?
The deburring machine is for small parts that I don't want to debur by hand, the polishing is with a buffing wheel.
The holder for the brass is a peice of cardboard with double stick tape to hold the cardboard to the aluminum 5" wide slab (held by the clamps) and tape to hold the brass. it is too thin to hold with clamps.
I use Flashcut to generate the code, preview the cut, then edit it by clicking on the text on the bottom. (I cut and paste to move the 1st cuts to the top). Then I preview it again before I send it to the milling machine.
here is a photo of my midi pickups and controls. This big aluminum black is a palm rest. It will hold a switch for the Leslie speaker.
Ok I've gotten further now. I've actually made a bellcrank that would fit my old Sierra guitar. This one is made from wood but it has the exact dimensions I was going for. Looks just like the part I copied it from other than one slot and a screw hole that I didn't cut. That part would be really easy to finish so no problem there.
I'll probably try posting a picture of the new creation tomorrow. It's too late right now. Had to wake up the wife to show her this one.
I've had a few people asking for parts (specifically bellcranks) already. I think I'm just about ready to start making them for folks. Just need a template to go by.
Still working on making parts. But I started building a workshop to put all my toys in. Building a 12x16 workshop with a pitched roof. Got the floor joists done. I put 2 wall frames together. I'll probably do the other 2 in a few minutes. Tomorrow, I'll have the ag teacher at my school (where I teach math and computer science) work on it with his classes as a building project. They get to learn, I get a free labor.
Gary, go to www.gibbscam.com, click on get info, fill in the online form and I'll send you an infopack on Gibbscam CNC software that is my day job.
Tom Baker at Sierra is one of our customers and Don C. before him. All the Sierra parts are made with our software.
JE:-)>
Jim, I requested info and put in your name. But from what I've seen of CAD/CAM software prices, I don't expect to be making a purchase. Maybe if I was a bigger business.
My workshop is getting closer to being done. It now has a floor, 4 walls, and the beam and rafters for the roof. I'll try to put some wafer board on the top tomorrow. A few more days and I can start milling parts.
I'll certainly try to make some. But I'll need to have a part hear for measurements. Or someone could send me CAD files of the parts. To the nearest thousandth would be good.
I got 4 wafer boards up today (half of the roof). Man what a chore. Those things are tough to get up by yourself. And the 30 mph wind didn't help much. And to make things worse, when I got them all screwed down, I noticed that I had leaned my building north by about 2" at the top. I'm going to have to unscrew those and redo them.
Gary:
I am a retired toolmaker and have made lots and lots of parts here in my little home shop.Several lathes, a couple of mills and the usual hand tools.I have considered a CNC (maybe Tormach 1100) but not right now. Take a look at my homemade keyless guitars at http://home.comcast.net/~regdiller
Lots of luck with the TAIG!
Regards
Reg Diller
Email:regdiller@comcast.net
Homemade D10, 8/7, Profex2,Nashville 400.
That keyless head of yours looks almost identical to a design I came up with a few years ago. I haven't gotten around to making it yet but it shouldn't be much longer now that I'll have a place to work on it.
How much clearance did you leave between the sliding pieces and the sidewalls of the slots? Is yours made of steel or aluminum or something else? Does it hold tuning well? Is it easy to tune in the upward direction? Have any problems with strings pulling back through the set screw.
I had thought of making a crankshaft type wrench to turn the screws. Did you do anything like that?
Hey Gary...
Would you like a print of my tuner? The base is 3/4 aluminum, the 3/16 hex tuners are stainless,the screws and rods inside the tuner are O-1 (drill rod), and the sliders are aluminum. Just a couple of thousandths clearance. Never have had any problem and it is very smooth when coming up on scale. A joy to tune your guitar with this set up. Just had prostate surgery last week so I am not up to speed yet, but then how fast do you go when you reach 75? Keep on pickin'
If you don't already have one, a nice small t.i.g. welder will complete the "things I need" list! 
