The Light-weight Steel Guitar Case

[Fay Reid]

For those with bad or aging backs, this may be of some help.

I looked for a solution to the 90-plus pound guitar-in-case that I was carrying around to about 75 gigs per year plus practices. Splitting the unit into a number of parcels would help, so I built a Styrofoam case (2-inch SM) for the body of the guitar (MSA D12) and placed the legs, pedal bar, etc into a vinyl pouch. (Each leg has it own protective vinyl sleeve.)

The original case was about 25 pounds while the Styrofoam is about 7 pounds, a savings of 18 pounds. Now, the body-in-case weighs about 45 pounds or about half of what it originally did. One of the necks on the guitar had been previously removed for a lightening of about 7 pounds. So, an original MSA Classic D12 in the Styrofoam case would be a little over 50 pounds.

The Styrofoam case is upholstered both inside and out. This adds strength to the unit. The Styrofoam ledges, around the inner edges of the case for raising the guitar from resting on the bridge and machine heads, also add reinforcing strength. A 1-inch wooden handle runs the length of the case, making for easy manouvering of the guitar into and from a vehicle. The handle is secured with four 2-inch uphostery straps, with pinch buckles, that encircle the case.

Given the amount of use for the case, it has stood up very well over the past three years or so. The outer uphostery has required

a little regluing and that's it.

Originally, I made the case as an experiment to see how it would stand up to such an assignment. Now, I must conclude that it is more than an experiment; it is just part of my regular equipment. Good-bye 18 pounds!

[Fay Reid]

I have a sketch of the general plan that I used to build the case. Of course you'd have to size it to your own guitar. Email me at efay@porchlight.ca for a copy.

[Fay Reid]

Here's the diagram. Sorry, it wouldn't upload rotated.

[Mike Shefrin]

[Mike Wheeler]

Now THAT'S innovation! Fay, congratulations on thinking outside the box. (pun intended)

Some of us part-time pickers might really benefit from your idea. Thanks!

[Nic du Toit]

Nice plan!

Just a couple of questions:
What is best way to cut the long straight Styrofoam pieces?
How did you make the very long holes for the dowels?
What glues did you use for the Styrofoam, the outside vinyl and the inside upholstery?
Would a square wooden rod (with rounded edges) be easier for the long handle?
Regards

[Bent Romnes]

Fay, that sounds like a workable solution for lightening the load locally.
From what I understand, the case was never intended for air travel or shipping with UPS.

I'd love to see it. Maybe when I am in your area, or if you ever come down to London...
Good job!
Bent

[Jay Ganz]

I just ended up using a gig bag for my old D-10 Emmons. It's actually for a small keyboard,
but it's perfect for the steel as well. Total weight: 30 lbs. Cost: $25.
The legs, pedals, and rods are in a small wooden case I tacked together: 12 lbs. Cost: zero

[Bob Blair]

Jim Murphy used something very similar to that Fay - a two peice case which seemed to be filled not with styrafoam but with some kind of softer foam rubber. He said that he took it on the bus and everything. Great idea!

[Al Marcus]

That sounds like a good idea. We all want to reduce the weight of our guitars and cases, especially as we get older.

What would be nice a real lightweight case for gigging and a heavy duty case stored away for when you have to ship it. The best of both worlds...hmmm al.:)

[Fay Reid]

Cutting long pieces of Styrofoam: Sharp butcher knife along a 4 foot level as a strait edge. I would use the uncut surfaces as gluing surfaces since these would be much truer. I think a 2' x 8' piece of foam is sufficient.

Cutting long holes for dowels: For the smaller holes a twist drill with an extra length of shank welded to it. My father had had it made years ago for some projects like drilling down through walnut lamps for the electrical cords. I inherited the modified drill. The larger holes for the lid securement were drilled with an expansion bit used to drill varying sizes of holes in wood. Again, inherited from Pa.

Glues: Styrofoam...a foam glue specially for foam (any hardware store)
Vinyl: product called "No More Nails" (any hardware store)
Uphostery: spray-from-a-can uphostery glue from the shop were the material was purchased. This can be a little tricky to work with; sort of like contact cement. Make sure the pieces fit and plan your every move. Push it into corners well. If you have to remove a section or part of one, spray on a little more glue.

Square wooden handle: It would work but I think that you'd still have to use belting over and under the handle to keep it from rolling in the hand, if you were trying to extend this idea. For me, the 1" wooden handle was likely in the basement and if not was readily available at a local lumber supply store. Keep in mind that a round structure has the most structural integrity for a given weight. So just as a matter of priciple, why not use round stock? Round stock needs no further material removed for ergonomic value, so it cuts down on work.
Fay

[Fay Reid]

My house is always open to steel players. If you attended the Jeff Newman seminars held in London nearly 30 years ago, we may have already met. I'm about a mile from Highway 115.

Three steel players periodically visit to jam in our basement. Many of the groups in which I've played have held their practices here. I not only have the room and the conveniences of a computer for planning arrangements of songs but, also, a very understanding wife.
Fay