New Dustpans for HSGA Convention
Moderator: Brad Bechtel
- Rick Aiello
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New Dustpans for HSGA Convention
Solid, sand cast A356 aluminum alloy ...
Potbelly pickups ...
Grover tuning machines ...
Concentric potentiometers (250K vol/500K tone/0.022 mfd cap)
I ended up going with polished aluminum (after much deliberation) and black wrinkle powder coated Potbellys.
The back plates are extruded aluminum with midnight blue wrinkle powder coat ...
The 22.5" scale Dustpan has the strongest pickup I've ever build ... it's 2" wide and I call it the "Sumo Belly" ...
These will be on display in the Dustroom at the HSGA Convention in Joliet...
Come on over and have a-go at 'em ...
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- Andy Sandoval
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- Rick Alexander
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- Gerald Ross
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I get to try these out in a couple of days.
Gerald Ross
'Northwest Ann Arbor, Michigan's King Of The Hawaiian Steel Guitar'
A UkeTone Recording Artist
CEO, CIO, CFO - UkeTone Records
Gerald's Hawaiian Steel Guitar/Ukulele Website
'Northwest Ann Arbor, Michigan's King Of The Hawaiian Steel Guitar'
A UkeTone Recording Artist
CEO, CIO, CFO - UkeTone Records
Gerald's Hawaiian Steel Guitar/Ukulele Website
- Don Kona Woods
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Rick-Very nice workmanship-Your website is a lesson in the old art of poured aluminum sandcasting-It must take alot of work to cut the fret slots and set the individual fretwires-I think that makes the frets more visable to the player than the original frypan design-Can you tell me more about the A356 aluminum alloy that you use? I am familiar with AlMag35 which was used in the original Bigsby castings-that being alloy of 35% magnesium with the aluminum-Is the A356 all newly produced material or does it have any percentage of recycled content? Also I am glad to see that you are now using #38 wire on the pickups like old makers such as Bigsby and Rickenbacker used-I also see that you are using a 0.022 mfd cap for the tone control-most of the older guitars used an 0.050 tone cap which are no longer available and the closest usually to be found these days is 0.047-so I guess what I am asking is how did you settle on the 0.022 cap? Thanks-PW
- Fred Kinbom
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Fantastic Rick!!!
I love the backplates too.
Can't you please send one of those on a "European tour"?
Fred
I love the backplates too.
Can't you please send one of those on a "European tour"?
Fred
www.fredrikkinbom.com - New lap steel album out now - listen here: fredrikkinbom.bandcamp.com/album/songs-for-lap-steel-and-harmonium
- Terry VunCannon
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- Rick Aiello
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- Location: Berryville, VA USA
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Thanks for all the kind words y'all ...
Andy ... I have the "top" knob set for volume ... and the "bottom" knob set for tone ...
Paul ...
It is essentially 93% aluminum and 7% silicon (and some trace elements that don't add up to 1%).
The reason it's usually the first choice among foundry men who sand cast ...
1) It's silicon content ... which allows for a smooth flow thru sprues, gates, etc.
2) It is T6 heat treatable ... giving it a strength similar to that of mild steel ... thus it combines exceptional mechanical strength, fatigue strength and machinability.
Thats for things like cylinder heads, etc.
My main reason for choosing this particular alloy ... aside from it being recommended by virtually every foundry man I spoke with ... stems form my personal knowledge of crystals.
Crystalline materials are much more resonant than amorphous materials.
Being 93% aluminum ... and using gravity/low pressure based sand casting ...
The aluminum is free to form one huge crystal (well, almost) ... free of most of the "stresses" associated with die casting or an extruded aluminum product.
Less "stress" = Truer crystal formation = Better resonance = More "musical".
As I've said many times here ... "better tools via material science".
The main one being ... copious amounts of steel in the construction of the unit.
Most pickup makers won't even use metallic base plates or covers ... worrying about the production of "Eddy Currents".
I "embrace" eddy currents ... ...
In fact the only "Non Metal" components in the entire unit ... is the forbon top (needed for lead attachment) ... and the insulation on the magnet wire.
I get away with it because of the tremendous magnetic field my units produce ... therefore ...
My pot/cap choice ... was determined by trying every conceivable combination ... then picking the one that best suits the huge magnetic field of the "Belly" and the solid crystalline body of the Dustpan.
The combo of a 500 K pot and a 0.022 mfd cap ... gave it the nicest overall roll off pattern.
The whole "package" (steel & pup) ... is a "study" in modern material science.
I love the "old sound" ... that goes without saying ...
But there is no doubt in my mind ... the key to the sound that I've strived for ... has "little to nothing" to do with reproducing vintage units.
My excursion into that "arena" ... left a horrible taste in my mouth ...
So much so ... that I need daily infusions of Sailor Jerry ... to get the taste out.
And Paul, I expect to do my best to eliminate that foul taste in Joliet ... and hope you will join me for a few
Andy ... I have the "top" knob set for volume ... and the "bottom" knob set for tone ...
Paul ...
A356 aluminum alloy is the "premier" sand casting alloy ...Can you tell me more about the A356 aluminum alloy that you use? I am familiar with AlMag35 which was used in the original Bigsby castings-that being alloy of 35% magnesium with the aluminum-Is the A356 all newly produced material or does it have any percentage of recycled content?
It is essentially 93% aluminum and 7% silicon (and some trace elements that don't add up to 1%).
The reason it's usually the first choice among foundry men who sand cast ...
1) It's silicon content ... which allows for a smooth flow thru sprues, gates, etc.
2) It is T6 heat treatable ... giving it a strength similar to that of mild steel ... thus it combines exceptional mechanical strength, fatigue strength and machinability.
Thats for things like cylinder heads, etc.
My main reason for choosing this particular alloy ... aside from it being recommended by virtually every foundry man I spoke with ... stems form my personal knowledge of crystals.
Crystalline materials are much more resonant than amorphous materials.
Being 93% aluminum ... and using gravity/low pressure based sand casting ...
The aluminum is free to form one huge crystal (well, almost) ... free of most of the "stresses" associated with die casting or an extruded aluminum product.
Less "stress" = Truer crystal formation = Better resonance = More "musical".
As I've said many times here ... "better tools via material science".
Something really special about # 38 (in my opinion). I do all my "Potbellys" and Ricky rewinds (for friends only) ... with it.Also I am glad to see that you are now using #38 wire on the pickups like old makers such as Bigsby and Rickenbacker used
My "Potbelly" pickup breaks almost every "Paradigm" in the pickup world ...I also see that you are using a 0.022 mfd cap for the tone control-most of the older guitars used an 0.050 tone cap which are no longer available and the closest usually to be found these days is 0.047-so I guess what I am asking is how did you settle on the 0.022 ca
The main one being ... copious amounts of steel in the construction of the unit.
Most pickup makers won't even use metallic base plates or covers ... worrying about the production of "Eddy Currents".
I "embrace" eddy currents ... ...
In fact the only "Non Metal" components in the entire unit ... is the forbon top (needed for lead attachment) ... and the insulation on the magnet wire.
I get away with it because of the tremendous magnetic field my units produce ... therefore ...
My pot/cap choice ... was determined by trying every conceivable combination ... then picking the one that best suits the huge magnetic field of the "Belly" and the solid crystalline body of the Dustpan.
The combo of a 500 K pot and a 0.022 mfd cap ... gave it the nicest overall roll off pattern.
The whole "package" (steel & pup) ... is a "study" in modern material science.
I love the "old sound" ... that goes without saying ...
But there is no doubt in my mind ... the key to the sound that I've strived for ... has "little to nothing" to do with reproducing vintage units.
My excursion into that "arena" ... left a horrible taste in my mouth ...
So much so ... that I need daily infusions of Sailor Jerry ... to get the taste out.
And Paul, I expect to do my best to eliminate that foul taste in Joliet ... and hope you will join me for a few
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Paul Warnik
I asked the same question regarding tone caps. I asked many pros. And I am sure Rick will answer your question more eloquently but the answer I got was; 'It makes no difference in sound' from the guitar itself. I know the web sites try to sell the paper in oil tone caps and vintage this and vintage that but according to those that build the guitars, tone caps make the difference in amplifiers and high powered items but not in a guitar where there is little running thru it.
If someone can prove otherwise, please present your case and Rick can present his. I would enjoy learning more. But my ears hear zero difference.
As a layman I only know I have purchased $25 vintage style tone caps and inexpensive $2 tone caps when replacing them on old Ric's and can hear absolutely no difference coming out of the guitar itself. I have tried both .022 and .047. There is a lot of hype about this on web sites.
I asked the same question regarding tone caps. I asked many pros. And I am sure Rick will answer your question more eloquently but the answer I got was; 'It makes no difference in sound' from the guitar itself. I know the web sites try to sell the paper in oil tone caps and vintage this and vintage that but according to those that build the guitars, tone caps make the difference in amplifiers and high powered items but not in a guitar where there is little running thru it.
If someone can prove otherwise, please present your case and Rick can present his. I would enjoy learning more. But my ears hear zero difference.
As a layman I only know I have purchased $25 vintage style tone caps and inexpensive $2 tone caps when replacing them on old Ric's and can hear absolutely no difference coming out of the guitar itself. I have tried both .022 and .047. There is a lot of hype about this on web sites.
- Mitch Druckman
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- Harry Dietrich
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In the imortal words of Mister Crabb:
All kidding aside Rick...another couple of exquisite masterpieces.
TRULY THE AGE OF THE CRAFTSMAN HAS NOT YET PASSED!
Too bad I'm just a poor old retiree living on a fixed income, or I'd buy one... or two."Fine job me boy."
All kidding aside Rick...another couple of exquisite masterpieces.
TRULY THE AGE OF THE CRAFTSMAN HAS NOT YET PASSED!
Last edited by Harry Dietrich on 7 Oct 2007 3:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Don Kona Woods
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- Rick Aiello
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- Brad Bechtel
- Moderator
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Those are works of art, Rick! I envy the person who ends up playing them.
Brad’s Page of Steel
A web site devoted to acoustic & electric lap steel guitars
A web site devoted to acoustic & electric lap steel guitars
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Rick A-Thank you for your detailed and informative explanation-It is clear that you are quite knowledgeable in the "science of sound" as it pertains to the instruments that you make-See you in a few days-have a safe trip to my "Land of Lincoln" home state-Then we will toast to all good things-dustpans,HSGA,#38 wire,and steel guitar playing friends
OH MY
Save me a place in line - these are lovely to look at, and I'm sure they sound amazing.
can I trade in my #3 ?
chris
Save me a place in line - these are lovely to look at, and I'm sure they sound amazing.
can I trade in my #3 ?
chris
Chris Kennison
Rhythm Cats - steel, guitar, banjo, dobro
Gold Canyon, AZ
www.rhythmcatsshow.com
www.seldomfed.com
Rhythm Cats - steel, guitar, banjo, dobro
Gold Canyon, AZ
www.rhythmcatsshow.com
www.seldomfed.com
- Rick Aiello
- Posts: 4701
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