The Steel Guitar Forum

I took delivery of mine 3/11/88 and it was serial no. 511L

On the guitar I use to practice, I'll have maybe 200 hours on before changing strings. I break string 4 occasionally.

I broke the hook on a pedal rod for bolt-on push pull. It is the type that has the reduced size hook
and is overall 24 3/4" without the connector.

My only problem with the Session 115 is the AC cord sticks out too far in the back and needs to be removed before loading out, or it could be damaged.

I have always thought the changer made the biggest difference. I am sure Ron tried to keep all the other factors that affect the sound the same as much as possible when he made the La Grande. But my La Grande was good tonewise but not as good as my push pulls. It would be interesting to hear from so...

I have the string 2 & 9 lowers on the RKL because I felt I had more control of hitting the 1/2 stop right on the money. The knee moving outside seemed to have less fine control. However, if you have the F# to G# raises along with the G# to F# lowers plus maybe D# to E, and pulls on the C6 side I...

The thinnest string requires the most travel.

Herb, I took delivery of 511 L 3/11/88 Louis

Herb, I ordered 511L new with 9 & 8 and took delivery on 3/11/88. This model was made for a few years between the SKH and the 14 hole bell cranks Regards, Louis

Bump

Looking for a K130 4 ohm with original cone or reconed with JBL kit not after market

Still looking if anybody has one they would like to sell Thanks, Louis

Thanks for the info , Louis

I might be interested in a recone if it was done with a JBL kit rather than a generic. Thanks, Louis

I have a Twin that is the 135 watt ultralinear transformer type. I am wanting to use an 8 ohm speaker . Can I just put a shorting jack in the ext. speaker outlet to get on the 8 ohm tap. Thanks, Louis

Looking for JBL E-130 either 4 or 8 ohm, with original cone

Looking for a JBL E-130 4 ohm with original cone

Chris, Burnie Hauser is supposed to have number 9 the serial no. is 1164009W so, it should be a bolt-on wood neck. Regards, Louis

I had some older model MSA guitars and the nylon bushings working their way out was always a maintenance problem for me. Builders could probably use a bushing with a flange with the flange against the trim piece to solve the problem.

Paul, I had that change on a 1970 MSA along with E to D lower, plus 2 pulls on E9th. It worked good but when I pushed the lever it was so hard that it would turn the guitar. I soon opted for E to F only, and 2 pulls on E9th. Now it was quite manageable. To this day I still have my guitars that way. ...

sent you an email Louis

John, I thought about taking off 1 or both of the A to B changes on the C6, so it would ease up the action, but I really do use both of them, not like pedals 5,6 and 7 but still quite a bit. Thanks !!!

Paddy, this is exactly what I'm planning on doing on my 9 pedal guitar. The two I use the most are 8 pedal with the wide spacing and a 9th pedal can't be added.Thanks!!!

Bobby, I've got use to moving forward to contact that lever but, since this is a whole tone drop I was concerned about the length of the pull. Did you have to use an idler bellcrank to speed it up? I was trying to get away from moving the first lever more to my left to allow extra room.

I currently have B to A on pedal 4 with the F# lower on the RKR on my push pulls. To me the pedal 4 location is somewhat inconvenient not to mention the pedal stiffness with the standard C6 pulls. So I have been thinking of putting it on my 2LKL. I have the Emmons setup on the pedals and left knees....