The Steel Guitar Forum

@ David... I have that blue guitar now, and it really does sound nice!

I've heard "special paint", but...

I'd love a copy! Thanks!
davem@olympus.net

Thanks Jerry! Sounding slightly flat was what I noticed in the recording..

Thanks guys. I appreciate your input. It appears that few/none of you re-tune, and that was my question. I listened again to the recording and realized there were 'other' things going on as well..including the vocals. This was live, on a phone, and the band was louder than usual, combined with the p...

I recently did a gig with a piano player sitting in on a gig that doesn't usually have piano. When I heard some recording of it, the steel sounded 'out'. I remember reading about retuning to ET when playing with a piano, but can't locate the article.
Any of you guys have any experience with this?
TIA

I've never had them anywhere else, and I've had to re-rod every steel I've owned over the years!

Preamps don't provide AC.. speakers run on AC.

IMHO, the best pedal steel amp ever! The 4 lug 'Output Tube Matching' pots are no longer available. I switched mine to a standard fixed bias pot and got rid of the distortion part of the master volume knob (pull position), but left the master volume part (which is really useful!). I balance the 6L6 ...

It does work. I've used a ToneAligner, the original Danny Sheild CT on a Sierra, and now the Steeltronics. Having the adjustable pole screws is a great way to solve problems and really fine tune string response and timbre.

I know some people put LeGrande pedals on PPs, so that might explain the pics..?

My '79 is stamped DST xxxx. I'm not sure how the numbering works.. it seems they had different numbering systems. The ST (which I thought was the Single Ten) and the DST (for the (D)ouble body Single Ten) may have had different systems.. hopefully, some one here can help us both out!

I'm in the passive pedal camp...
1). Initial outlay
2). Nothing you can't fix at home vs pedal electronics and power supplies.
3). As mentioned, one less thing to plug in..
My Fender tube amps have a bright switch to compensate for the loss of highs at low volume.

The ’bear trap’ retainer like in your pic doesn’t work well with the coin based tubes IMHO, and could cause the damage you experienced. There’s a LOT of heat involved. The spring retainers with the cap that goes over the top of the tube would be my choice..

While I can't answer your primary question (who made the originals), I can say that I've had good luck with the Tung-Sol STRs in all of my Fenders that use 6L6s...

I'm not seeing anything about this model on the website.. is there any source for information?

@ Rodger: They don’t have to be very tight. I put the setscrews facing the rear so they’re out of sight, and only use them above the pedal bar. You’ll probably have to dress the end of the rod to slide them on.. some of my legs were flared a little, but a file dressed them up. They’re a snug fit, so...

Mine's 5032, built 2-18-74. Gene Haugh sent me a copy of the factory ticket.
On the ticket, it says it was built by PM. Does anyone know who that may have been?

@ Roger.. left-most (bass) down, alternating up/down. Right-most to taste.

I’ll take it.. PM sent!

I'd love a copy! Thank you!
davem@olympus.net

Sounds like you have the chromatic concept, so a few chordal possibilities would be: Let's look at the 5th fret.. Open, you have an A Raising st. 1 a half tone gives A- (stay off of string 3! 😄) Lowering st. 2 a half tone gives you A7 Also, at the 5th fret, open on strings 5,2,&1 gives you a 5 c...

Eric..do you have any '2" over' pedal rods that go with it?
Thanks!

Peavey Delta Blues amps are 30w 16ohm..

I have this one. Lacquered tweed case, TC Electronics M1-XL processor with the paperwork. Excellent condition. Asking $800
More pics on request.